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- Preparing the board layout
- --------------------------
-
- The board layout is supplied as a bitmap file of 300 DPI
- resolution. You find PCL files in the PCL.ZIP archive and
- postscript files in PS.ZIP. PCL files can be printed by HP
- Laserjet compatible printers. Type something like COPY PCB.PCL
- PRN: /B at the DOS prompt to print the layout.
-
- The next step is copying the layout to a foil as used for an
- overhead projector. You can do that easily in the copy
- shop at the next corner, but make sure that
-
- - the black areas of the copy are quite dark
- - the lines are not interrupted
- - the copy is exactly the same size as the original printout
- - there is only very little 'dirt' on the copy
-
- If occasionally two lines are connected by 'dirt', you can
- remove these connections with a knife once you've etched it to
- a copper board.
-
- Note:
-
- If you don't have access to a Laserjet or postscript printer,
- you may try to print the PCB.PCX file also supplied with this
- package in the PCX.ZIP archive. Remember that it is a 300x300
- DPI file.
-
- Sorry that no HPGL file is supplied. We used a pixel based
- program to draw the board layout.
-
-
- Etching
- -------
-
- Etching is not as complicated as you may think after you read
- this decsription. If you and your friends plan to build more
- than one interface, etching clearly is the technique of choi-
- ce.
-
- To etch a printed circuit, you need:
-
- - a UV lamp (a sun-ray lamp is fine)
- - a piece of perspex at least the size of the board
- - a single sided board with a photo sensitive layer
- - a thermometer (0 to 100°C)
- - two bowls for devolping and etching
- - the developer (sodium hydroxide (NaOH))
- - the corrosive (sodium peroxydisulfate (Na2S2O8))
-
- Sodium peroxydisulfate (white crystal powder) is the corrosive
- we recommend because it is transparent so you can see what is
- happening to the board during the etching process. Don't use
- Iron(III)chloride (little yellow balls), another common cor-
- rosive. It is inferior because it's not really transparent and
- easily soils everything in range.
-
- Sodium hydroxide (white pellets), the developer, should be
- kept in a securely closed container as it's corrosive, too.
-
-
-
- Exposure
- --------
-
- The photographic layer of the board is UV sensitive (if you
- don't have a UV lamp, you can expose it to the sunlight for
- some hours). However, for regular exposure you should keep out
- sunlight and switch off neon lights.
- Remove the protective cover from the board and place the
- board on a plain surface. Now put the foil with the printed
- circuit on the board, align the edges and use the perspex to
- ensure it lies absolutely flat. The copyright notice should be
- readable now. Don't use a sheet of glass as glass blocks the
- UV rays. The distance to the lamp should be not less than 30cm
- depending on the power of the lamp. If it is too close, the
- heat may damage the perspex.
- To determine exposure time, you should try this first
- with a very small piece of the board (you should have it
- anyway, as the interface is not of a standard size). A 300W
- sun-ray lamp needs about 5 minutes, but this may vary, so you
- have to make some experiments with small splinters of the
- board. If the time is right, you will notice a slight change
- of color in the exposed areas. It should be possible to recog-
- nize the lines of the printed circuit now.
-
-
- Development
- -----------
-
- Prepare a solution of 10g/l sodium hydroxide in water, i.e. if
- you use 200 ml water you solve 2g of sodium hydroxide in it.
- If you don't have a balance of the necessary precision, buy
- the sodium hydroxide at a chemist's who prepares the solution
- for you. Drop the exposed board in the solution and wait until
- the circuit is clearly distuingishable and all areas that are
- to be etched away are shining copper. Light gray is not
- enough. That should take 2 to 5 minutes. If it takes longer
- than 10 minutes, something went wrong - try to increase the
- exposure time. Rinse the board with clean water before
- etching.
-
-
- Etching
- -------
-
- The corrosive solution needs about 500g/l sodium peroxydisul-
- fate. During the etching process, the temperature of the cor-
- rosive should be 50°C to 60°C. This can be assured by putting
- it over a pot filled with boiling water.
- You have rinsed the board with clean water? OK, then you
- can put it into the corrosive. The etching process is finished
- when all areas that are to be etched away are deprived of cop-
- per. This should take no longer than 15 minutes. (If the
- temperature drops below 50°C, etching is slowed down to a
- stop.)
-
-
- Drilling
- --------
-
- Drill 0.8mm holes for the chip sockets and 1mm holes for ever-
- ything else. The joystick connectors are fixed with M3 screws,
- so you should drill 3mm holes for them. The cross hairs indi-
- cate the screw position for a special brand of connectors, so
- perhaps the connectors you purchased need the holes drilled at
- a different position.
-